Watering an allotment
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Water thoroughly but less often, early in the morning, at the base of the plants, and use a can rather than a hose. Most sites don't allow hosepipes, so catch rain from your shed roof in water butts.
On a shared site, water is often the job that eats your time in summer. Carrying cans from a trough is hard work, so it pays to water well rather than often, and to catch every drop of rain you can.
Water less often, but properly
The RHS advice is to water less often but more thoroughly, and to let the surface dry before you water again. A deep soak encourages deep roots.
- When: early morning is best. Evening is fine, but leaves that stay damp overnight can encourage pests and fungal disease. Avoid the heat of the day.
- Where: at the base of the plant, not over the leaves.
- How: a watering can is the most water-efficient method and gives you the most control.
Which crops need it most
Quick-growing leafy crops such as lettuce and spinach like evenly moist soil. Root crops such as carrots and beetroot need water less often.
A few crops have moments when water really counts:
- Runner beans crop best with plenty of moisture at the roots, especially once they start to flower and form pods.
- Potatoes need watering in dry weather for a good crop.
- Onions want water in dry spells, but stop once the bulbs have swollen in mid-summer, or they may not store as well.
Raised beds dry out faster than open ground, so check them more often.
Keep the water in the soil
A mulch of organic matter at least 5cm thick cuts water loss from the soil. The RHS suggests putting it down between late autumn and late winter. If you're going no-dig, you're mulching anyway.
Catch rain from your shed
A shed or greenhouse roof is free water.
- Fit guttering and a downpipe into a water butt.
- Join two or more butts together with a connector kit to store more.
- Keep a close-fitting lid on each butt, and keep the gutters clear of leaves.
- Clean the butts once a year. If the water smells, empty and clean the butt rather than adding chemicals.
- Avoid using stored rainwater on seedlings, as it can carry damping-off diseases.
Ask your site before adding butts or guttering to a shared structure. Some councils, such as Bolton, need permission for sheds and greenhouses in the first place.
Hoses, sprinklers and troughs
Few allotment sites allow hosepipes and sprinklers. Your tenancy agreement will say what's allowed. Before you buy any hose kit, ask:
- Are hoses allowed at all, and on which taps?
- Do they have to be hand-held, or can they be left running?
- When is the water turned off for winter?
- Can I dip cans straight into the trough, or is there a rule about that?
During a drought your water company may bring in a hosepipe ban as well, which applies on top of your site rules. VERIFY: find a GOV.UK or Ofwat page on temporary use bans and whether they cover allotments.
FAQs
How often should I water my allotment?
There's no fixed schedule. Water thoroughly, then wait until the surface has dried before watering again. Leafy crops need more regular watering than roots.
Is it better to water in the morning or the evening?
Morning. Evening watering is OK, but leaves that stay wet overnight can encourage disease.
Can I use a hosepipe on my allotment?
Only if your site allows it, and few do. Check your tenancy agreement.
Your next step
Check your tenancy for hose rules, then mulch your thirstiest beds and set up a water butt by the shed. For crop-by-crop timings, see the crop guides.
Sources
- RHS: RHS watering: water less often but more thoroughly; early morning is best; water the base of the plant, not the leaves; leafy crops need even moisture, roots less often; a watering can is the most water-efficient method; organic mulch reduces evaporation awaiting check
- RHS: RHS allotment basics: a half plot might need about eight hours' work a week for an inexperienced gardener; not all sites allow polytunnels or greenhouses; few sites allow hosepipes and sprinklers; push hoe, draw hoe and onion hoe worth having; old tools are worth using; check an inherited shed for rot awaiting check
- RHS: RHS collecting water: collect from roofs including sheds and greenhouses; join butts with connector kits; fit a close-fitting lid; keep gutters clear; avoid using stored rainwater on seedlings (damping-off); clean butts each year awaiting check
- RHS: RHS runner beans: not frost hardy; sow indoors mid-April to May or outdoors late spring to mid-summer, 5cm deep and 15cm apart; plant out once frost risk has passed; supports of 2.5m canes or hazel poles in a double row or wigwam, canes 15-30cm apart; at least two bucketfuls of compost or manure per square metre; water well once flowering; pick every two to three days; one of the easiest crops to grow; dwarf varieties in pots 30-45cm wide; climbers need a heavy pot about 75cm wide and 45cm deep awaiting check
- RHS: RHS potatoes: chit from late January (milder areas) to early March; plant first earlies around late March, second earlies early to mid-April, maincrops mid-April to early May; trench 15cm deep; earlies 30cm apart in rows 60cm apart, maincrops 37cm apart in rows 75cm apart; earth up at about 23cm to a 20-30cm ridge; first earlies lifted June-July, second earlies July-August, maincrops late August-October; store cool, dry and frost-free; open, sunny site not prone to late frosts, rich fertile soil; usually easy and reliable; blight less likely on earlies; in containers at least 30cm wide and deep, one seed potato per 30cm of width, earlies best, grow bags need drainage holes awaiting check
- RHS: RHS onions: sets planted early to mid-spring (harvest July-September) or overwintering sets in autumn (harvest June-July), not in waterlogged soil; sets 10-15cm apart in rows 20-30cm apart; birds peck out new sets; heat-treated sets reduce bolting; stop watering once bulbs swell in mid-summer; harvest as foliage yellows and topples; dry about two weeks; store light, cool, dry and ventilated; sunny site with free-draining soil; seed sown indoors mid-winter to early spring; sets about 2cm deep with the tip just showing; can be grown in containers at least 45cm wide and deep in a sunny spot awaiting check
- RHS: RHS raised beds: fertile, free-draining fill helps on poor or waterlogged soil and warms up sooner in spring; beds dry out faster and suffer drought more; keep beds under 1.5m wide to reach the centre from both sides; 30cm deep suits salads and strawberries, most plants need 45cm or more; paths at least 45cm for a wheelbarrow, 1m for a wheelchair; pressure-treated timber is popular and durable, untreated wood has a shorter life awaiting check
- Bolton Council: Bolton Council example: tenants must get written permission before erecting a shed, greenhouse or polytunnel, or planting fruit trees (a local rule, not UK-wide) checked 24 Oct 2026