No-dig vs digging on a new allotment

Short answer: no-dig is easier on the soil and cuts annual weeds, but you need a lot of compost. Digging still makes sense for clearing perennial roots or when you can't get enough mulch.

Ask ten plot-holders whether to dig and you'll get ten answers. Both ways grow good veg. The real question is which suits your plot, your back and the amount of compost you can get hold of.

How no-dig works

No-dig means you don't break up, lift or turn the soil. Instead, you spread organic matter such as garden compost on the surface and plant into that.

The RHS lists the benefits as better soil structure, more activity from soil life (which breaks the organic matter down), intact fungal networks and fewer weeds, especially annual weeds.

Starting no-dig on weedy ground

1. Cut down tall weeds and grass.
2. Lay a double layer of plain cardboard over the soil. Avoid shiny, printed card.
3. Spread 10–15cm of organic matter on top to hold it down.
4. Pull any weeds that come through as soon as you see them.

If you want to plant straight away, the mulch needs to be deep, ideally at least 10cm. After that, top up with about 5cm a year.

When to mulch

The RHS says late winter (February or early March) is best, as long as the soil isn't waterlogged. Mulching in autumn can waste nitrogen.

The catch: you need a lot of compost

No-dig can use large amounts of organic mulch. On a full plot that adds up fast, and home compost takes six months to two years to be ready.

To work out how much you need, multiply the bed area by the depth. A bed 1.2m wide and 3m long is 3.6 square metres. At 10cm deep, that's 0.36 cubic metres, or 360 litres. The plot planner does the sums for every bed on your plot.

Ways to make it go further:

• Start no-dig on one or two beds and cover the rest with something light-excluding until you're ready.
• Get your compost bays going from day one.
• Ask your site secretary whether the site ever arranges manure or woodchip deliveries.

When digging still makes sense

Digging can still be the practical choice when:

• you need to get out deep roots of perennial weeds before planting. The RHS advises clearing an area and taking time to remove all deep-rooted weeds when you take on a plot.
• you can't get enough compost to mulch the whole plot.
• you want to plant in a bed this season and don't have the mulch to do it no-dig.

If you do dig, do it a bed at a time. A half plot might take an inexperienced gardener around eight hours a week to keep going, so pace yourself.

Rotavators

Thinking of hiring a rotavator for a weedy plot? Read our clearing plan first, which explains the problem with perennial weeds.

FAQs

Is no-dig better than digging?

It's different. No-dig protects soil structure and cuts annual weeds, but it uses a lot of organic matter. You can mix the two: no-dig beds where you have compost, and digging where you need to clear roots.

How thick should no-dig compost be?

About 10–15cm on new ground over cardboard, and around 5cm as a yearly top-up.

Does no-dig work on a very overgrown plot?

It can, with a double layer of cardboard under a thick mulch. Keep an eye out and pull any weeds that come through as soon as you see them.

Your next step

Pick one bed to start with. Measure it, work out how much compost it needs in the plot planner, and cover the rest of the plot until you're ready.